Hakama

Hakama are a type of traditional Japanesewear hakama in the context of their sport, are,
clothing. They were originally worn only by men,however, required to wear traditional Japanese
but today they are worn by both men anddress whenever they appear in public. As hakama
women. Hakama are tied at the waist and fallare one of the most important parts of traditional
approximately to the ankles. Hakama are wornmale formal dress, sumo wrestlers are often
over a kimono (Hakamashita). safetyseen wearing hakama when attending
webbingThere are two types of hakama, dividedappropriately formal functions. In addition to
and undivided . The umanori type have dividedmartial artists, hakama are also part of the
legs, similar to trousers. Both these types appearevery-day wear of Shinto kannushi, priests who
similar. A "mountain" or "field" type of umanorimaintain and perform services at shrines. Hakama
hakama, were traditionally worn by field or foresttraditionally formed part of a complete outfit
workers. They are looser in the waist andcalled a kamishimo . Worn by samurai and
narrower in the leg. Hakama are secured by fourcourtiers during the Edo era, the outfit included a
straps (himo); two longer himo attached on eitherformal kimono, hakama, and a sleeveless jacket
side of the front of the garment, and twowith exaggerated shoulders called a kataginu
shorter himo attached on either side of the rear.(pictured). Samurai visiting the shogun and other
The rear of the garment has a rigid board-likehigh-ranking daimyo at court were sometimes
section, called koshi-ate, below that is arequired to wear very long hakama called
hakama-dome (a spoon shaped component) whichnaga-bakama (long hakama). These resemble
is tucked into the obi or himo at the rear, andnormal hakama in every way except their
helps to keep the hakama in place. Hakama haveremarkable length in both the back and front,
seven deep pleats, two on the back and five onforming a train one or two feet long and impeding
the front. The pleats are said to represent thethe ability to walk normally, thus helping to
seven virtues of bushido, considered essential theprevent a surprise attack or assassination
samurai way. Although they appear balanced, theattempt (see image here). Naga-bakama are now
arrangement of the front pleats, (three to theonly worn in theatrical performances, particularly
right, two to the left) is asymmetrical, and asnoh plays, and Shinto rituals. Some hakama during
such is an interesting example of asymmetry inthe Sengoku period had the hems made narrower
Japanese aesthetics. The most formal type ofthan the body in imitation of the ballooning
men's hakama are made of stiff, striped silk,trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style
usually black and white, or black and navy blue.carried on into the Edo period and became called
These are worn with black montsuki kimonokarusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they
(kimono with one, three, or five family crests onhad a secured band of cloth looking rather like a
the back, chest, and shoulders), white tabipants cuff sewn around each leghem, so the
(divided-toe socks), white naga-jubanballooning fabric would not open out like regular
(under-kimono) and various types of footwear. Inhakama. Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are
cooler weather, a montsuki haori (long jacket)meant to be worn blousing over the leg and
with a white haori-himo (haori-fastener) completesexposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are
the outfit. Hakama can be worn with any type ofsomewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord
kimono except yukata (light cotton summeris run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a
kimono generally worn for relaxing, for sleeping,"ballooning" effect . To allow for the body
or at festivals or summer outings). While stripedrequired, more formal sashinuki were six-panel
hakama are usually worn with formal kimono,hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this
stripes in colours other than black, grey and whitecord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of
may be worn with less formal wear. Solid andkukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest form of
gradated colours are also common. While hakamasashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit
used to be a required part of men's wear,longer) and have a cord running through the hem
nowadays typical Japanese men usually wearof each leg. These cords were pulled tight and
hakama only on extremely formal occasions andtied off at the ankle. This was the form
at tea ceremonies, weddings, and funerals.commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki
Hakama are also regularly worn by practitionerswere worn by court nobles with various types of
of a variety of martial arts, such as kendo, iaido,leisure or semi-formal wear.
aikido, and kyudo. Sumo wrestlers, who do not